This Side of the Lens (A Year in French) One American's perspective of living in France

September 24, 2008

Return to French

Filed under: En Route,Thoughts — Tags: , , — Swami-G @ 9:11 am
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Logan's Run?

I know some of you may be thinking that this shot doesn’t look like San Francisco international airport.  To you I say, you are correct.  This shot is of someone else’s plane looking out the window towards the Las Vegas strip.

The night before I left the U.S. I drove to my friend Hans’ house in Oakland so that in the morning I would have less of a drive into the city.  I left sometime after 5am so I wouldn’t run into a wall of traffic and the drive to the rental car building took 25 minutes, so I was in good shape.  The rental people there are very efficient and I was finished dropping off the car before I was able to get all my belongings out of the trunk.  Tired and cold I wandered along with the rest of the crowd toward the automated tram car that would deliver us to our intended terminal.

Something I failed to mention in the previous post is that I’m flying standby.  While this has been relatively easy so far, today there is something different in the air. Nobody is saying it, but something is definitely up.  Did I step in shit on the way in? No (I look to confirm.)  Even though I’m being polite and patient, the people behind the counter are short with customers, and are not being communicative with me.  After the plane has left the gate, the woman begrudgingly speaks to me.  She tells me that my luggage and I did not make that flight to Philadelphia (NSS) and that we would have to wait for the next flight.  When I asked about my luggage she informed me that it would not get on the plane without me because that was the policy.  OK, time to kill time.  Since I was still tired I sat down put on my headphones and did my best to zone out, but not too much because I didn’t want to miss my name being called.  I noticed the gate filling up as the time got closer to my flight and I noticed the announcement for first class customers, and the announcement for the various sections of the plane, but I didn’t hear my name.  I knew that since I was sitting 15 feet from the counter that they knew I was there, and since they didn’t seem too enthusiastic about answering questions I’d just wait and see.  Sure enough the plane left and they didn’t say a thing to me until I went back to the counter and asked what the next step would be.  They weren’t sure and I should sit back down until they called me, was my answer.  Now I’m starting to get nervous about catching my flight to Paris later in the day, so I attempt to schedule a flight with another airline just in case.  This is difficult without a U.S. mobile phone and SFO is not one of the ‘nice’ airports that offers its customers free wifi to make their lives easier when traveling.  Just about the time that I have figured out what my other flight options might be, I was called to the counter.  Great. . . well the good news was they were going to put me on a flight to Las Vegas.  The bad news was that my bag went on to Philadelphia with out.  Whoops, someone didn’t know the policy.  OK, off to Las Vegas, not too bad, and there is a flight to Philadelphia that looks like I will most likely get on it.

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Trash TV (nothing personal)

I couldn’t leave the Las Vegas airport unless they told me there were no more flights, so I killed time.  And more time.  Eventually I was fortunate and got on a flight to Philadelphia.  There was no chance of connecting with my flight to Paris at this point, so I was resigned to deal with the situation the best I could.

When I got to Philadelphia I walked from one terminal to the next trying to figure out where my luggage would have come in, since I was not on the same flight.  Eventually I found the luggage counter where they hold your bag if you don’t pick it up off the carousel in time and I was kindly informed that they were unable to tell me where my bag was because it was an international flight and it would be held in a customs holding area.  When I asked if it went to Paris without me, I was told that the bag was not allowed to go to Paris without me because of customs regulations and that it would be held for me and only put on the plane if I was on it too. OK, but my toiletries are in my suitcase so… I was handed an official airline toiletry bag and pointed toward the door.

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échelle to paradis?

I am a fairly seasoned traveler, so I knew the score.  Having left for SFO before 6am I had finally reached Philadelphia at 11:45 pm and after the luggage hunt I was now in search of a hotel after midnight.  Hardly fair considering they always charge you for a full day, but I was exhausted and willing to spring for the soft bed over the plastic airport chairs that discourage lying down.  The courtesy phone did not have number buttons, you know the one with pictures on one side (informing illiterate people of who they could expect might answer) and a cold steel button on the other side that would initiate the call?  Well this was a welcome accommodation at that hour, however, for what ever reason the picture and the associated steel button no longer seemed to be in any way related.  Somebody must have reprogrammed the buttons, but was not equipped or willing to replace the pictures.  So there I was hitting hotel pictures and getting taxi dispatch, hitting taxi dispatch and getting car rental, and hitting car rental and getting limousine service.  WTF?  Eventually I got a hotel desk, and even though I was never able to understand the name of the hotel, I did find the shuttle bus and was dropped off in front of the hotel.  Whew… now to sleep.  I asked when check out was, and then told reception to let me sleep undisturbed until checkout time.  (Why not try to get on the clock, and might as well make the best of it, right?)  There were no ladders there, I just thought the picture would fit some how.  OK, the next day I bathed and prepped myself for the continuation of my journey.  My flight from PHL to CDG didn’t leave ’til the afternoon, but I was taking no chances.  I reported early at my gate, and then started wasting time.  Reading, listening to podcasts, playing solitaire, whatever.  This time I did make the flight and all was good.  You see the flight is set up so that you get going, have dinner, watch a movie, go to sleep and wake up in the morning just before you land in Paris.  This way you are rested and back on the european clock.  Well it’s nice in theory anyway.

I arrived on time in Paris and after the wonderful wait in line to show my passport to people that look as if they couldn’t care less, I made my way to the luggage carousel.  There is always a certain level of anxiety involved with waiting for your luggage to appear on the carousel, and being that the last time I saw my luggage was two days earlier this time was definitely no different.  I waited from the first bag to last bag and mine was apparently not amongst them.  Ah sh!t, I’ve been here before, but never in a country that doesn’t speak-a-da-english.  Again I went off in search of the luggage desk and when I finally found it and handed over my claim ticket, the man disappeared and re-emerged 3 minutes later with my bag.  I was so relieved I just took the bag and headed off towards the inner-terminal tram.  I made my way to the TGV station and waited my turn in line.  On my way to the TGV ticket counter I called Christine and asked what the best course of action might be, since she was in Avignon for the day and was unable to pick me up at the station in Aix-en-Provence.  We agreed that I would try to get to Avignon and meet up with her before she left instead of getting to Aix and making other arrangements.

When my turn came up, I asked for a ticket to Avignon, and the gentleman assisting me told me that if I hurried (oh goody) there was a train going to Avignon in 4 minutes.  He also kindly added that if I missed that train to come back and he would fix the ticket for another train.  I did make the train, and except for a slight delay for a train change in Lyon I made it to Avignon.  Next I needed to find Christine, so I got a taxi to take me over to where they park the tour busses.  Done and Done.  After leaving at 5:30 am thursday morning I was now in Avignon at 4pm Saturday afternoon.  The tour bus driver was also accommodating and agreed to drop us off about 1 km from our house so that we didn’t have to take another bus home.  So at about 7pm we arrived back at our house and I began to unload, oh and unpack too.  This is when I discovered that when my bag went to Paris without me (I know against policy and apparently beyond the control of customs) my luggage had been ransacked and the employee in charge of luggage in Paris had decided to gift himself a new portable hard drive out of my bag.  He/she also decided that they should listen to my iPod stereo while stuck on after hours duty, because the remote was slipped into a different pocket and the batteries were half dead.  I lodged a report with the airline, but what can you really do?  The hard drive that I bought for Claude was now part of the employee benefit program.   Oh well.  I’m not suggesting that everybody who travels to Europe stuff all there belongings into the overhead bins (like the WONDERFUL people that fly Southwest) just that if its small and valuable, you may want to have it with you.

Take care everyone.

th2

September 18, 2008

Daddy’s Girl

Filed under: En Route — Tags: , , , , — Swami-G @ 9:11 am
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Chicago Midway Airport

Back in July I wrote about my dog becoming homeless in September.  I suppose I did what I had to do, which was return to the United States to pick up my dog and either find her a new family or a temporary home.  So beginning early in the morning Christine dropped me off at the TGV station where I caught a train to Paris.  Although this seems like a common thing now, I can usually rely on Christine to converse in French when needed and she is more familiar with Paris.  I’m not sure what the problem was, but for whatever reason the train was running late that day.  I got on the train at the right time, but the train pulled into the CDG station 48 minutes late.  I was counting on those 48 minutes to get through security and reach my gate with a little time to spare.  Luckily I reached the gate just as they had started boarding the plane, so I waited my turn somewhat drenched in sweat from being nervous and having to run halfway across the airport to find my flight.  I got on the plane and settled in to what felt like a extraordinarily long flight to Philadelphia.  Similar to the train ride earlier that morning, it became apparent that the flight was taking longer than was scheduled.  I suppose head winds were to blame, but again I find myself without the hour cushion time I was counting on to pick up my luggage and get through customs.  I don’t know if you’ve ever been through the Philadelphia international airport, but it is huge.  Another one of these airports where the terminals are spread out and you are expected to catch a shuttle bus to go from one to another.  After I picked up my luggage and convinced a TSA person that I needed to get out of that line so that I could get to my gate three terminals down the road, I asked her what the quickest way to get there would be.  Her answer was that I should start running, because the shuttle would take longer to return and pick me up.  So there I am running again with my large suitcase on wheels and my stuffed carry-on on my back.  Again with much luck and too much stress, I just made it to the Southwest gate in time to get in the C line (my ticket was marked B) and get on the plane.  The Southwest way of doing things deserves its own blog rant, but for now, I’ll just skip to finding an empty seat (sandwiched between two people that were hoping  they wouldn’t have to share.)  I had to change planes in Chicago and even though my flight was late, I still had time to get a bite of food first.  I sat at a table across from the Blues Brothers and downed my airport food.  One more leg and I’ll be in Portland.  I was scheduled to arrive at midnight and I still had to rent a car and drive to my sister’s.  Maybe I don’t need to say it, but yep, the plane was late.  By the time I reached the car rental counter there was a buzz going around that there were no cars left.  I calmly waited my turn and watched the suits in front of me turn different shades of red before finally storming off, keys in hand in search of their cars.  The gentleman in front of me was almost gone when he returned rather loudly exclaiming that his car was not a car, but a mini-van!!  The flustered attendant-in-training told him that they were out of economy cars, and that he had been upgraded for free to the mini-van.  The guy said that he had reserved an economy car and had no intention of paying for the extra fuel it would take to drive this behemoth to his destination.  After some debate behind the counter I heard the attendant-in-training offer the man a free tank of gas on top of his free upgrade.  I was surprised to hear them counter with this offer and was getting excited about what goodies might await me if I played my cards right.  Well he got louder and an assistant manager was summoned to handle the irate customer.  After all that he got his economy car; some piece of %^& that he seemed happy about (some people don’t know what battles to pick.)  I was nothing but polite and ended up being upgraded to some funky thing I had never heard of, but that drove real smooth, had an iPod jack, all sorts of gizmos and to top it off some serious horsepower.   After I got settled in I asked the wonderful GPS to take me to my sister’s house.  Shortly after knocking on the door all the dogs started howling and my sister answered the door.  My furry girl was there, nose out the door and a look on her face I did not recognize.  I think she was wondering if she was dreaming.  I assured her I was in fact there and I think she finally believed me as I lay on the sofa next to her trying to convince my body that it was time to sleep now.  Since my internal clock said it was time to wake up, I had to force myself to get that needed shut-eye.  I told my sister that I wanted to get out on the road early the next morning so if she could wake-up a little earlier it would help.  I couldn’t sleep that long, so I got up and got all our things ready.  I had the car packed and ready to go by the time my sister got up, so after a small chat I hit the road.

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I5, north of Shasta

Here I am hurling down I5 after a brief stop in Ashland where I was unable to meet up with anyone and where I forgot to stop by the store and pick up some special Ashland hippy cream I discovered on a previous visit and had told myself to get more of as I was passing through.  A full tank of gas and heart-burn is all I left with and I needed to make up some time.

I had no idea where I would take my girl, and though we were reunited in the car, she was in the back and I had ground to cover.  My plan was to go to a hotel in Rohnert Park that accepted dogs, so that first thing the next morning I could start hunting and we could bond on our own for at least a night.  I knew that I would be staying at friends and that their dogs and my own didn’t get along so well, so things might get a little touchy.

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Mount Shasta, CA

The road trip portion of the journey is beautiful, but under the circumstances, I all can do is point the camera out the speeding window and try to capture the moment for a later time.  So I’m looking at those shots now and remembering, and missing my furry one.

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Sonoma, CA

The sun is going down now and I’m heading past Sonoma on my way to Rohnert Park.  The sky was much prettier than it looks here and I was relieved to be there soon.  I think it is a little over 10 hours to drive down from Portland and with my stop in Ashland I was pretty well tuckered.  Not to mention the internal clock still being set 9 hours ahead of the local time.  When I got to the hotel the Sheriff was just finishing collecting the weekly print out from the woman behind the counter.  I was previously unaware that the Sheriff got a printout of everybody who rents a hotel room during the week.  Not surprising, just didn’t know that’s how it happens.  After moving the stuff into the room, we went out for a bite to eat then went back to the hotel and called it a night.

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The Queen

No, this is not my girl.  My girl is waiting for me.  This one is sweet, but it’s not worth the trouble if they decide to go at it.  I am testing the water, checking Craigslist, calling Veterinary offices, shelters and anybody that will listen.

I took my girl in for a whole battery of tests to see if there was anything that might lead me in a new direction.  The doc said that my girl is fine, and even though she is 68 in dog years, she may very well live another 5 human years.

Back to searching for a home, or new parents.

Anyone?

Anyone?

Anyone?

I’ve used my time in the U.S. up.  I’m desperate.  I call the only person that I can think of that is left to ask.

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Caught with me between her and the door

I called the kennel that my furry one has stayed at so many times when I have had to fly around on business trips.  I explain the situation and plea my case.

A very kind arrangement is agreed upon and my furry one is left in the care of the kennel and the truly big hearts of the people that operate the kennel.  Although I wish I could take her with me, I know that it is not a viable option.  Now I must get everything together and make my way to San Francisco, so that I can catch a flight back early the next morning.

Since my flight back was another adventure in air travel I think I’ll save it for next time.   So until the next post, I hope you are all well.  Cuddle up with your furry house guests if you have any and I’ll be back soon.

July 19, 2008

A Short Break in Saint Gilles

Filed under: En Route,Exploring — Swami-G @ 12:52 pm

 

Saint-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie Grand Plage

Saint-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie Grand Plage

After the conference, the travel and the other appointments Christine and I were able to relax a bit and enjoy the slower pace.  We had some time to kill before going down south to Aix-en-Provence so this part of the journey was more about recharging our batteries.  That includes not lugging the camera around as much, so this will be a short post, with no external photo link pages.  The town is called Saint-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie.  The tourist season was just starting to hit full swing, so it was just about time to go find our own place and rhythm.  Until next time, take care,

-G

July 18, 2008

Pilgrimage

Filed under: En Route — Tags: , , , — Swami-G @ 11:14 am

 

L'Abbaye de Scourmont where the Pères Trappistes make their fabulous Chimay Biere

L'Abbaye de Scourmont where the Pères Trappistes make their fabulous Chimay Biere

 Since catching up is the name of the game I thought I would post this entry to briefly describe the journey from Belgium back to the west coast of France.  After leaving Brussels, Christine pointed out that we would be going past the town of Chimay.  Hmmm, could it be?  TomTom said no worries, so off to Chimay we went. Although this was no easy task, as we discovered that there was a bike race through the country side (no not the tour de France) that caused us to take several detours and at one point we asked a couple of children if it was even possible to get to Chimay.  The boys told us about a road out the back of the small village we were in so I flipped the rocket around and we continued toward Chimay.  The Abbaye, as any bottle clearly states, is not actually in the town of Chimay, but a short drive away. 

When we arrived we did get to see one of the monks, but he left and we didn’t see any other living Chimay brew masters during the remainder of our visit.  

The final resting place for previous brew-monks

The final resting place for previous brew-monks

The Abbaye is very beautiful and is even available for private retreats and other functions.  We were told that the Monks were forbidden from selling the tasty ale directly to the public, but it was not clear whether or not there was an ‘all you can drink’ policy while staying at the Abbaye.  The gardens were open to the public but the rest of the Abbaye was off-limits without expressed permission.  The hallway right off the main entrance to the Abbaye was lined with speakers and psychedelic orbs, which made me wonder what kind of a party these monks like to throw.  There is a picture of this glass lined hallway in the picture page that I have posted, though its from the other side of the courtyard so you’ll have to squint and take my word for it.  We stopped by the Auberge after the Abbaye to pick up some souvenirs  and then headed off to the next stop along our route.

 

The entrance to Hirson

The entrance to Hirson

The town of Hirson has a history in Christine’s life, though I suppose I should leave that story for Christine’s blog.  Since Hirson is so close to Chimay we had to stop by and take a short walk around town.  Hirson used to be a mining town, but since then it sort of settled into the “small town along the road” kind of place.  We all hope that Christine will be able to post an entry about Hirson, cause I don’t have much else to say other than check out the cool photo of the Singer store downtown.  The link to the photo page will appear below…

 

OK, after leaving Hirson we decided to stop by Reims.  

Notre-Dame de Reims

Notre-Dame de Reims

“The cathedral was completed by the end of the 13th century, with the exception of the western front. That portion was erected in the 14th century, following 13th century designs,the nave having in the meantime been lengthened to afford room for the crowds that attended the coronations. The towers, 81 m tall (approx. 267 ft), were originally designed to rise 120 m (approximately 394 ft). The south tower holds just two great bells; one of them, named “Charlotte” by Charles, Cardinal of Lorraine in 1570, weighs more than 10,000 kg (about 11 tons).

In 1875 the French National Assembly voted £80,000 for repairs of the façade and balustrades. The façade is the finest portion of the building, and one of the great masterpieces of the Middle Ages. German shellfire during the opening engagements of the First World War burned, damaged and destroyed important parts of the cathedral. Scaffolding around the north tower caught fire, spreading the blaze to all parts of the carpentry superstructure. The lead of the roofs melted and poured through the stone gargoyles, destroying in turn the bishop’s palace. Restoration work began in 1919, under the direction of Henri Deneux, a native of Reims and chief architect of the Monuments Historiques; the cathedral was fully reopened in 1938, thanks in part to financial support from the Rockefellers, but work has been steadily going on since.” (Extracted from wikipedia)  The restoration is still in progress as evidenced by the scaffold, and the very clean ‘new’ parts of the façade that are slowly replacing the older broken and dirty portions of the structure.  Unfortunately the smiling angel was obstructed by the scaffold, so you’ll just have to find other photos, or go when they are finished in that area to see it for yourself.  I’ve posted other photos that I took inside the cathedral, along with the other photos along the route at this page right HERE. Please post your comments by clicking the comment link on the right.  Share your photos at the Open Gallery.  Or leave me a phone message @ 206-202-3342.

Until the next one. . . take care,

-G

July 15, 2008

En Route

Filed under: En Route — Swami-G @ 4:14 pm

 

The Chateau at Pierrefonds.  Rebuilt after being razed by one of the Louis Kings, probably the 14th.  Then in the 19th century, Napoleon III had it rebuilt in the then modern medieval style by Violet-Le-Duc, who was renowned for his architectural renovations at the time.

The Chateau at Pierrefonds. Rebuilt after being razed by one of the Louis Kings, probably the 14th. Then in the 19th century, Napoleon III had it rebuilt in the then modern medieval style by Violet-Le-Duc, who was renowned for his architectural renovations at the time.

I really wanted to share the wonderful adventure that was Bastille day in Paris, however, thanks to the Humanoid Urban Dwellers, Bastille day in Paris is no longer a safe party in each of the neighborhoods with dancers, music, food and reverie. NowAdays Bastille day (which by the way is not referred to by name, and is only called a holiday) is limited to the park in front of the Eiffel tower. This area, which is huge, was packed with more than one hundred thousand people. By the time we drove to Paris, navigated to the downtown portion of Paris where we had arranged to park and sleep, and met up with our friends, the ability to travel to the above mentioned area was abysmal. Not only that, but this is when we learned that thanks to the violent nature of the urban dwellers, all the other neighborhood parties are now a thing of the past. Well first things first…We had arranged to take our friend out to dinner, so after learning that his son had taken off with the keys to the parking garage we drove around the block in search of a parking space. To our amazement we did find a spot just down the street and the only down side was that we had to take everything out of the car so nobody would break the windows and we had to be up bright and early to pay for the spot so we wouldn’t get a ticket. During dinner our host suggested that we go to the top of the tour montparnasse for coffee and to catch the firework show from the tallest building in Paris. Although I was hesitant about this plan, I realized that getting to the Tour Eiffel was hopeless and that if we could get to the restaurant on the top floor of Tour MontParnasse this would likely be a runner-up for prime spots to view the festivities, even at a distance. Let me just say that the security guards quickly shut that plan down, so defeated and tired we walked by the the apartment building and tried to catch the show on a big screen projection t.v.. While these were the best seats in the house for the first part of the party, channel 2 decided that shortly in to the fireworks display it was more important to show a rerun of a police detective show vaguely reminiscent of CSI las vegas and cold case files (except in french, and with apparently less of a plot.) Since we had a large dinner and too much champagne by that point, we decided to head back to the apartment on the other side of the building and then call it a night.

In the morning we went over to have breakfast with our host, and then packed up the car for the trip to Belgium. It is at this point that I wanted to start an entirely new blog about the adventures caused or contributed to by my TomTom GPS unit. You see, it was at this point that my asking the TomTom for the quickest way out of Paris started me on a cross town journey right through the middle of Paris. While this may seem trivial to those of you sitting on your couch, try to put yourself in a very stressful driving situation and then Triple it!!! I’ve driven in Manhattan, San Francisco, Nice, and in parts of Italy, so it’s not like I’ve never negotiated big city traffic, it’s just that the intense down town stuff can staRT TO GET TO YOU especially when you don’t know all the rules and people have a strange way of doing things sometimes. So half way through this adventure through Paris, christine asks me why the GPS has decided to take us from one side of Paris to the other side of Paris going right through the middle, when there is a sort of highway that goes around Paris to avoid just this sort of route. While ringing the GPS’s neck seemed like the best emotional resolution at the time, the GPS was also my guiding light and savior when it came to telling me what lane to be in and what to expect around the next bend. A true love/hate relationship I have with my TomTom. At any rate, the Tomtom got me out of town and on my way to belgium. Meanwhile, Christine was looking at the real map and wondering (again) why we were headed toward Lilles. “susan” (the computer voice in the tomtom) likes to pick the route with the fastest speed limit so. . . “OK well maybe we can get off the toll road and have an adventure later on.”

That’s where we took the detour and headed toward Pierre Fonds:

We stopped for a quick bite to eat and and equally quick tour of the castle. Since we were on a schedule we decided that we didn’t have time for the whole tour, and that we would have more fun taking a hike around the castle and then heading back toward Belgium. Since I’m tired and there is more driving before reaching our destination, I’ll leave this post at this point. So until next time I hope you are all well. . .Take care,
-G

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